corvideye: (goose)
After all the previous doodles, in December I decided I wanted to do some that were a little more complex/ challenging (something I hadn't been able to handle for a while). I also wanted to do something different with the background. Me and my bright ideas... The contorted clouds in this one seemed to take forever. But I like the result very much.
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I'm amused that this one, an attempt to vary the curvy and flowy tendencies, ended up looking a lot like heavy metal album art. I had a hard time keeping the dark pigment dust out of the light areas and vice versa, and the paper began to get overworked from all that 'scrubbing'. Turns out this paper does have an eventual limit of how much pressure it can handle, though it takes a while to get there.
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This one is a bit different, and I love its exuberance: a Scythian-esque fish, amid Celtic-esque waves. I was stumped for a long time on what to do in the background that wouldn't get overly busy and compete with the waves. Finally I found a color scheme that was muted enough to work, partly inspired by rediscovering pre-Raphaelite/ symbolist artist John Duncan. I atypically kept the strokes in the sky loose, not fully blended, to make it more energetic and ethereal. Although the waves are mostly saturated, there too I avoided taking it to the ultimate polish, because I didn't want to lose the vigor and spontaneity of the colors. It's also a good break from my default color scheme.
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All these were done with mostly Prismacolor brand pencils, on Stillman and Burn gamma series paper.

(In general, this medium photographs really poorly. I get truer color using flash, but then I end up with unwanted shine on the glossy surface. The fish photo is unsatisfactory in that regard, but still the best image I have, and the edging of the top one should be a darker blue.)

Every time I use this technique, I find myself wondering why I do it--why spend so much time building up layer after layer to achieve full color saturation, when I could just squeeze brilliant red or deep blue right out of a paint tube? Plus it's MUCH easier to cover mistakes and restore highlights in acrylics than in colored pencil, which requires more strategic forethought, reserving the lightest areas and laying in the darkest ones cautiously. But working with a pencil or pen has always seemed much more intuitive to me than working with a brush. Sure, I can do good stuff with a brush, but the color rendering just seems to take more mental translation. Also, pencils are extremely consistent: x pencil used at x pressure gives the same color every time. Paint has a lot more variables: how thick or dilute, ambient temp/humidity affecting drying time, proportions used in mixtures, amount of paint on the brush, shape and material of the brush, how absorbent the surface is, whether the layers and strokes blend or stay distinct, etc.

Above all, what I have finally realized is that I use this technique because I enjoy it, even when it seems to take forever and makes my hand hurt. The very fact of going over and over an area is part of what I like about it... getting the enjoyment of creating a shape not just once but repeatedly, making it emerge almost sculpturally from the page. It allows me to savor the creation, like slowly unwrapping a present or sipping a delicious drink instead of gulping it. Because it goes gradually, it is also less likely to abruptly go wrong. And although pencils are predictable, there is still a certain amount of mystery in determining what layers to lightly apply so that the right color and texture will emerge when the final burnishing blends them all together. It's the kind of enjoyment many people get from a crossword or sudoku, except at the end, I get a drawing!

Still, I do have a tendency to lose interest at the very end, when the discovery is past and it's just a matter of filling in all the last unwanted spots of white paper. These were all started in the winter and then ignored for a while, so when I got fired up about drawing again in March and April, I decided I should finish them before I started something new.
corvideye: (lotus)
My creative output in the past three years has been woefully low, for reasons which boil down to 'chronic pain and depression suck'. However, at one point in 2013 when I wanted to play with color but didn't feel up to drawing something representational or meaningful, I started playing with my colored pencils and created a sort of dimensionally rendered knotwork. It has become my equivalent of the 'coloring books for grownups' craze that's sweeping the nation right now. It works on a nonverbal, hand-mind level that I find pleasing and soothing, and there's no expectations, so it's completely unpressured. I make the initial shapes in a very improv, unplanned way, because the whole point is not to be perfectionist about it.

It started with this page, where I was also testing out a new sketchbook, the Stillman & Birn Gamma series. They're pricey, but luckily I got a free one through work. Of all the MANY sketchbooks I've owned over the years, this has the most superb paper! It's cushy, strong, with just the right amount of texture to hold a lot of colored pencil layers but not break up the color, and handles my heavy-pressure burnishing technique like a dream. In the 'chinese amoeba' (lower right), I also tested out a new miniscule stick eraser by Tombow--truly the smallest eraser out there, and I love it! I used it to 'carve out' the outlines, then went over the lightened areas with a lighter blue.


That was fun, so I did another one with the erased-outline technique:


Later I did a bit of acanthus (lighter pressure)...


...And so on.


I just kept doing them when the occasional urge struck. The next batch is from 2014. This is one of my favorites for some reason... a more Renaissance feel.






This knot got a bit awkward... it seems like the strands are fighting rather than interlacing! I also experimented with a less uniform background, but as ever, I prefer a more evenly saturated look.


These are from 2015...


Left to my own devices, I gravitate to the same color schemes of fire colors (red/orange/yellow) or warm earth colors + intense blues, so here I tried to push myself in different directions...



...I loathe the color combo in this, and yet, in a kind of psychedelic way, it works!

Happily, this year has already been going a LOT better artistically (and in other ways), and I will post the more recent stuff as soon as I get some decent photos.
corvideye: (Default)
A few weeks ago I did a demo at work trying out the Pentel Pocket Brush Pen and the Pentel Hybrid Technica fine point pens. I drew these big cats using a National Geographic poster as a reference. Since I was just experimenting, I didn't pencil anything first.

Snow leopard. Rawr.


Leopard. I deliberately did this one with few outlines, trying to convey the contours with the spots.


The tiger in the original photo really did look this morose. It must have been having a bad day.

The above were all drawn with the Pocket Brush Pen on smooth Copic paper. The PBP is a smaller version of the well-known Pentel Color Brush pen; it's the size of a normal pen, and refillable with cartridges. Like its bigger sibling, it has actual nylon bristles (rather than a felt nib) and a nice inky feel to it, much like using a real brush dipped in ink. If you press hard, you can get a scratchy drybrush texture (depending on the paper), which surprised me, as ink pens don't tend to deliver enough liquid to smear around like that (cf. for instance the loose dark areas around the snow leopard).

For me, this brush pen wasn't a keeper because it just didn't give enough resilience and control in the middle line weights; it felt too soft and mushy compared to the type of brush I like. (The only brush pen I've liked so far is the Pitt pen, whose springy felt nib gives a surprisingly good mimic of an actual sable brush, for juicy thick lines or tiny thin ones.) But I can see how someone with a looser, more sumi style would enjoy the Pentel, and of course it would be ideal for Asian calligraphy. It's also handy if you want to quickly color in a large area of black.


And then there's the sort of dragony critter I draw when I can't think of what to draw. I used both pens on this, on vellum finish bristol which, despite being fairly smooth, gives the lines more texture. The broken lines of the belly and tail are an example of unintentional drybrush dragging; I did this drawing first and then switched to the smoother paper, but the effect could be used deliberately.


For this lion I mostly used the Hybrid Technica, using the PBP only where I needed a dense black area. The Hybrid Technica comes in four sizes, all of them EXTREMELY TINY (I used 04 and 06). If you like cross-hatching ("For me, drawing is just an excuse to do some cross-hatching" -R. Crumb), which I certainly do, you will enjoy this pen. I also like that it has a metal tip rather than a felt tip in a small metal cylinder, like Pigma microns. For some reason my hand angle has never gotten along with the micron-style nib; also, the tiny felts can be easily bent or worn down. The Technica's metal tip delivers satisfyingly black ink like a teensy rollerball, not the unsatisfying grey of ballpoint. The only thing the Technica lacked for me was the ability to scribble out a dense black the way one can with a rollerball such as my favorite drawing pen, the Tombow Object. Once you start to layer lines densely on top of each other, the Technica's metal tip starts to scratch at the ink like a ballpoint. It's definitely a pen I would like to own and use again; I'd just use another tool for dense black.
corvideye: (Default)
This was a more recent effort (February). It is definitely a study, not a finished painting. Though I don't consider it entirely successful, it did teach me some useful things.



I've been trying to solve a problem with a previous unfinished painting involving sunset clouds over an ocean. I've also been mulling around the muted yet beautiful color rendering that was prevalent in the 1910s or so (arts and crafts/ art nouveau), how it conveys the sort of color you see at dusk when the sun is still up but most of the scene is no longer directly lit. How do you create those muted colors, vs. the objects in full sun? Well, with complementary color mixing, in theory. But putting it into practice is something I need to work on more.

I've also wanted to experiment more in painting with a watercolor style using fluid acrylics, which have better archival longevity than watercolor. Since the fluid acrylics dry waterproof, you can't lift or lighten a dry layer, which has advantages (you won't accidentally smudge something by washing over it) and disadvantages (you can't wipe off paint later to lighten an area or fix a mistake). As it turns out, the fluid acrylics dry about as slowly as watercolor when used this way, but I found it harder to get really pale, dilute washes.

So one night I experimented with these mullings. I don't have many fluid acrylics, so I had a modern palette that didn't really match up with the 1910s color concept: quinacridone magenta, phthalo blue, diarylide yellow; also used a smidge of white, turquois phthalo, jenkins green. As I found, though, you can still tone it down with complementary mixes (orange + blue, etc.).

I did this study improvisationally, not planning exactly how the light would work; thus it's not entirely consistent. I was mainly exploring how to mix the colors. The basic idea is that the light is coming from the horizon, but out of the frame of the picture, while the foreground is out of the light. The overall effect doesn't satisfy me... the water got too flat and murky, for one thing; it actually looks brighter here in the scan than in the original. But in places there were some nice accidental bleeds that made pretty color minglings (though some just got murky), and some good granulation effects, just like with watercolor.

I seem to be happiest in the middle of a painting, the sweet spot, after the uncertain beginning; then it so often gets overworked or the good bits overridden. Still, there were important inklings for me here, such as how to transition from the purples to the oranges (a warm violet, overlaid on the yellow-orange, creates a warm brown)... I really liked that dusky violet. Hopefully I can apply this exercise to the stalled painting, which has been bugging me for a long time.
corvideye: (Default)
I did this painting last August, just hadn't gotten around to scanning and posting it. I was camping on the south McKenzie for a long enough stint that I could spend a few hours doing a real plein aire painting. I had been pondering for a while that one's programmed instinct is to depict water as blue--but the river up there isn't blue at all. It's crystal clear, and the rocks beneath the water are mostly gray-green or rust-colored, while the depths take on a green tinge. So how to paint that without it looking murky and dull? That was my experiment.

This was a good learning exercise for me in many ways. For one thing, I tend to be more interested in depicting figures than backgrounds, but in recent years I've been grappling with some concepts of color and lighting and with the desire to paint complete scenes with directional light instead of just isolated figures of interest in objective color. So a river/landscape isn't something I would normally set out to paint. I also may not have ever done 1. a complete painting (not a sketch; not a drawing) of 2. this type of outdoor scene 3. in situ (not from a photo or imagination).

(click to see the whole thing)


Given all that, I was fairly happy with how it turned out. It took me three hours. I deliberately chose to paint a section of river that didn't have any really striking features of distinctive rocks or trees; the painting would have to work in terms of my rendering of light and color, not because of dramatic composition. And I would not use any pure blue.

If anything, I went a little too far to the green side, vs. the more muted gray-green, but I really didn't want it to be murky. The rocks got a little too yellow, I didn't entirely capture the translucence, but I feel it was a good effort. I used Yarka's cheap yet wonderful semi-moist watercolors plus a little opaque white, on a cheap 7x10 watercolor tablet.

For reference, here is a photo of approximately the stretch I was looking at, though the light had changed a little, and of course I simplified the background. (I did not paint from the photo, I just took it for later comparison). The photo doesn't really convey how much movement was in the water.


And here's a closeup of the water. Not easy to paint!


This was probably also good for me in another way... I've been noticing that left to my own devices, I really don't use green much in my artwork!
corvideye: (Default)
For those who are interested in such things, here is a list of all the paint colors, brushes, and other tools I used for the movie poster painting.

This picture of my palette on finishing day shows most of the main colors I was using:


List of materials )

A few specific things I learned or was reminded of in the process:

*It is easier to hide unwanted color by first painting over it with a tint (grey, light blue, etc.), and then with white, instead of just layers of white.

*Beware outlining with dark colors. Edges tend to catch light, not have hard outlines.

*If underpainting, be careful to choose a color that is warm or cool as suited to what you will paint over it. Beware of sketchy early brushstrokes in areas that need an even finish, like a blue sky.

*Don't rub paint off the painting with a paper towel (it leaves bits of paper; use a lint-free material or cotton swab instead)

*Use two water jars: one for warm colors, one for cool colors; you won't have to change water as often to avoid contaminating colors.
corvideye: (lotus)
8/23 Today I aimed to finish the painting so it would be ready to show in a video interview the next day. My hand was steadier than in the previous session, but still not as steady as I would wish; touching up the gas giant rings was a challenge. I painted fine dividing lines in phthalo blue, then phthalo glazes on the back side of the ring to make it recede. The yellow half was so crooked, I had to completely paint over it with indian yellow, paint it back in white and naples yellow, then glaze the shadowed part with red transparent iron oxide + burnt sienna. To clean up the planet edge, I painted a smooth edge with white, glazed it with indian yellow, then added other color touchups as needed to make it match.

More process and pictures )

The final result: (I'm hoping to replace this with a better photo; the light in this is a bit dim)

It took me about 30 hours total to paint. If there hadn't been the deadline and requirement to produce it for someone else, there was a point when I would have given up and walked away, maybe never come back to it. Instead I had to keep pushing till I made it work, and I did. That experience was extremely valuable.

I feel I've created a compelling image, one that helps define the project. I wanted to create an image that would make viewers curious, without giving too much away. I wanted to keep a certain ambiguity and tension between these characters, because that is important in the script. What's going on with these two? Is this help or threat, rescue or murder? Is the yellow man dead or alive? I'm pleased that it provokes curiosity about what happens before and after this moment. When I showed it to people who didn't know the story, they were immediately asking questions: "Is that guy alive? Will they fix their ship? What's going to happen to them?" That is exactly what I hoped.

Now here's hoping the filmmakers can raise the money they need and actually get this movie made...
corvideye: (Default)
8/19 Well, T. loved the painting--in fact, he said he was blown away and would be willing to put it on Kickstarter as it is. I guess I shouldn't be surprised, considering how much he liked the rough pencil sketches. He asked if I could finish it by 8/24, and I said that should be doable.

It was a big relief to know that I can make the picture work, and also to have an end point for it. Then I can do other, simpler pieces for the project.

Taking the evening off from painting, I found an amazing digital artist on deviantart, rhads. He has some of the most jaw-droppingly luminous art and vivacious color I’ve ever seen. This image mesmerizes me...

The Wind by ~rhads on deviantART

This guy knows how to paint clouds. I’m starting to grasp what I’ve been doing wrong... Dark seams between the cloud masses make sense; dark edges at the opening don’t. I'm still not sure what color should be between the yellow and grey layers... the shadows on warm-light clouds are usually mauve/ rose, but I'm nervous about introducing a new color at this point!

8/20 I showed the painting to some co-workers/ fellow artists, who were impressed. I expected some cloud critique, but one said, “Maybe you’re just thinking about it too hard.” Doubtless.

Their reactions bolstered my confidence. Yet as soon as I resumed painting, it all looked like an unfinished mess again. Hilarious.

I worked more on the yellow figure, defining the fabric folds...
then added more shadow to match the direction of the light:

I needed a reference to figure out the exact shape of the figures' shadows. That led me to staging this bizarre diorama with items on hand...

...then playing with the light angle till I got what I needed. I worked on the cast shadows and the snow around the body with phthalo blue.

I put a little more yellow and orange and brownish-white on the yellow clouds. It’s frustrating that I can’t fuzz the yellow cloud edges over the blue sky, because that creates unwanted green!

Throughout this project, I've had a huge problem with my cats and their residual hair. I live with 7 cats, some number of which are always in my vicinity, and their shed hair is everywhere, on every surface, on every paintbrush, no matter what I do. This may sound like a trivial problem, but it really isn't. Cat hairs readily stick in acrylic paint and continue to be very visible; more paint doesn't cover them. Once dried, they can only be removed by scraping or sanding. It is vexatious.

Likewise vexatious are the cats themselves, who are used to strutting around my computer desk and sitting on my lap whenever they damn well please. This doesn't work when I'm hunched over the slanted artdesk (encroaching the lap space!) and trying to forbid them from tromping through my paint. Shutting the door is not an option: they're loud, they're persistent, and they outnumber me! I keep struggling with them being insistently affectionate. There I am unable to paint while a cat dithers on my lap, my palette drying as I wait for them to settle, and clouds of hair settle over the painting ... I had to buy them off by creating auxiliary catbeds in the office, and one still managed to jump onto my palette at one point (though miraculously did not track paint anywhere).

8/21 At this point I felt very satisfied with the whole right side of the image: the figures, the hills, the trail, the planet. But the clouds still looked so flat and unconvincing by comparison, it was driving me crazy (even if no one else was bothered by it). They lacked conviction. Why couldn't I have gone to a school where they taught us something about actual rendering, as opposed to that postmodernist paradigm deconstruction crap?

I detailed the mountains with phthalo/titanium white mixtures, bringing out snow highlights and deepest shadows:
...Then more phthalo glazes to unify the effect and keep it all in shadow.
Of all my attempts at painting mountains, that just might be the best! The irony is that the earlier, simpler stage may have been more effective as background; this may be a little too much detail, calling attention to itself...too bad, I like it and I ain't painting it out.

As I had admitted upfront to T., the spaceship was the one part of this project I felt uncertain about. I am decent at depicting people and animals and natural settings, because that's what interests me and I spend a lot of time looking at them analytically. I can depict architecture if I have to, but it's not my fave (too much line-ruling). I am lousy at depicting cars, guns, planes, robots, and other machinery because they don't interest me. I have absolutely no ideas or opinions about what a spaceship should look like... so I'd just have to fake it, saved by the fact that this ship is in the distance and you don't see the whole thing.

The pic above shows my first pass at the ship, in a mix of phthalo, white, a tidge of yellow, and a tidge of alizarin. Once I looked at the painting from a few feet back, I could see that I needed to simplify the shape and make the damage more obvious: a bigger bite out of the outline.

To make the ship stand out more from the blues of the snow and mountains, I added a tiny bit of green to my mixture, the only green in the painting. I made the whole thing lighter than it might realistically be within the mountain shadow, in order to read well at this small scale. I detailed the lake ice/ water.



Next: finalize the planet details. In proper foreshortening, the rings should flare much wider at the bend, and be really skinny in back. I started that, but after this long session of painting, my hand wasn’t steady enough to do the fine ring lines...especially since I discovered that the rings are bent over the planet! I'd have to fix it on a fresh day. Using a protractor as a template, I firmed up the planet edge by outlining in phthalo with a tiny round brush, then feathering the blue out with a filbert brush so it wouldn't leave a distinct paint line. Then I corrected the planet edge with white, to provide a good base for the yellow corrections.

Having lost my ability to paint steady lines, I knew it was time to stop. But I'm close. All that remains is final details on the red man, finishing the ring and planet edge, and whatever I’m going to do to the &^%$# clouds. Fiddly little adjustments... I’m at the point where I hate every line of it and I want it to be done. I have to remind myself that most people will not be looking at it from 4 inches away.

Altogether, I had spent about 24 hours on this so far. It’s amazing how draining the work is! I think it’s the sustained concentration and decision making, creating something out of nothing. The constant uncertainty: is this stroke going to work? This one? Did I just cover over the best part? When sewing a garment, there may be parts you haven’t figured out, but you know it will probably involve consistent elements like a shoulder seam, a sleeve seam, hems; a fundamental structure that is somewhat predictable... with painting, it's all a mystery, from scratch, every time.
corvideye: (jago)
8/18 Today would normally be a writing day, but I needed to spend all day on the painting in order to have something I was willing to show T. the next day.

Continuing to paint the planet: I used titanium white, cad yellow med. & deep, titanium buff, and naples yellow to make it more yellow and give more distinct bands of striation (though I liked the striation enough that I didn't want to fully cover it!). Then I remembered Indian yellow, another transparent warm color, which gave the more golden quality it needed. I used more transparent iron oxide glazes and a little burnt umber to create a sense of depth in the surface layers, and to create the shadow to make it look like a globe not a flat disk.

As I worked, more visual logic questions assailed me: would the planet look that large in the sky, and that visible in daylight? No clue. Shouldn't it be casting a lot of yellow light on the snow also? Probably, but I really wanted to keep the ground as cold and stark as possible, and I already had a lot more color in this than T. and I had discussed. Sometimes design wins over logic.

I did some more work with cloud greys. How do you model clouds but not make them look dirty? It remains a problem. Then I tried some pale yellow on the inner ring of clouds, where the planet would cast warm light... no good. The pastel yellow was too sunset-pretty.


To make it more lurid and ominous, I added cad orange and Indian yellow. My tentative logic was that the light is on the rim of the clouds; the darker cloud system is closer to the viewer...but I suspected the dark rims should actually be light too. To quote Joni Mitchell: I really don't know clouds at all!

Avoiding the cloud problem, I put mountain shadow on the frozen lake and the snowy slopes around it, using the same blue/grey mix as in the clouds, then glazes of phthalo or white as needed to soften the edges. Adding that small amount of modelling really helped this feel more like a scene to me, a coherent receding space. Heading diagonally in the right direction?

However, I now realized the problem in painting with gesso after the initial stages: it’s flatter than the paint, so shows as matte spots on the snow. Oops. I covered that with titanium white for an even shine.

Back to the clouds: I mixed a really dark payne's grey to give more dramatic contrast. In retrospect, I can say that right about here is where I really went terribly wrong:

I soon realized that these edges are way too dark, and way too smooth: cumulus cartoons. I was modelling the edges too uniformly, as if these were smooth globs instead of loose water vapor. I kept hacking away at it, but couldn't make it right. Yet in each of my frustrated stages I can see an inkling, a little zone that did work, among an overall effect that did not. I'm really glad I took all the process photos, because thus I can extract those little bits for future reference. (The photos also helped show me that some progress actually was happening.)

It's a frustrating and scary thing about painting that there is no "save as" or "undo" command. With acrylics, especially, the ability to cover over previous layers is both a blessing and a curse: easy to fix, easy to obliterate something good, and (unlike watercolor) no built-in requirement to stop at a certain point instead of reworking it to death. In writing, you can change a draft, but as long as you saved a previous version, you can restore it exactly just by putting words back in that order: an exact correspondence of signified and signifier. In digital art, you can at least save and restore the stages or elements. Here, there is no fully going back to what was there before. Sometimes what you had before was better, sometimes it wasn't, but you won't really be able to tell until it's too late to go back...

A couple hours later, I finally concluded that this sky was too much for this picture, too dark, pulling too much attention to the background. That’s a problem with the planet too, but at least it looks convincing. There’s no reason for all these dark dramatic edges; these clouds should be light on the edge, and they’re snow clouds, not rain clouds. If this was just a sky painting, I could maybe live with it, but the figures need to be the focus of the image. Bah.

Some words of Michael Whelan kept coming back to me: "The trick is not to get your first illustration job, but to get your second job after you've blown your first..."

Casting despondently about, I turned to an Andrew Wyeth art book in the hope that he could show me how to paint clouds. Actually, it turns out he mostly paints flat overcast skies; not a distinct cloud to be seen. But I did find this trenchant Wyeth quote about his painting process: “I can’t control it. If I control it, it’s no good.”

That’s Andrew freaking Wyeth, the painter who has done some of the most meticulous, exquisitely detailed paintings of our era. A painter who often works in egg tempera, an extremely painstaking and finicky medium that does not accommodate a fast or loose approach. “I can’t control it.” Okay, then...

This is true in dance, in martial arts, in many other arts: in order to flow effectively, you have to relinquish control. But in order not to end up with an uncoordinated mess at least some of the time, your non-controlling must come from a place of deep knowing. There's the rub.

Pondering this, I took a dinner break, and went to National Geo for more photo references, which showed me how my cloud edges were much too crisp, simple, and defined, and how clouds are often dark ones against light ones or vice versa, less often a complete dark-to-light shading on one form.

Triggered by the ‘don’t control it’ concept and my extreme frustration, I returned to the painting and had a breakthrough (or a breakdown? or something). First I wanted to tone down the Dark Cloud Edges with some white glazes, but zinc white alone wasn’t covering at all. So I mixed a big pool of both titanium and zinc whites (splitting the difference of opacity) plus lots of Open gel to keep it blendable for a while. But instead of carefully glazing this in my usual manner, I slapped some paint on with a filbert brush, then rubbed it around with a rag. That seemed promising: softer, more atmospheric, no discrete brushstrokes getting in the way. I threw caution to the winds, attacked it, blobbed, blotted, smeared, wiped on, rubbed out, literally finger painted... god, it felt great! I made diagonal finger strokes for the effect of blowing snow, hazed out the edges, then brought some of the darks back by rubbing paint off, but let them stay streaked by white... A mess? Maybe. But I experimented, went out on a limb, out of desperation. I might have just created a bigger mess, I couldn't tell, but at least I tried something different. That... was really interesting.

Mind you, there were aspects of the version before that I liked better than what I had now. But sometimes you have to let go a piece of good material that doesn't fit the rest of the piece. As writers say, Kill your darlings...

I worked more on the snowy hills, creating contours and softening transitions; I finally subdued the heavy phthalo outlines with subtler grey-blue ones. The snow-trail behind the figures was coming along, rendered in various tints of blue.

Till recent years, I had never used filbert brushes (flat with a rounded tip), so I haven't really incorporated them into my repertoire. But on this piece I’m liking the filbert for rendering clouds and snow; it covers broadly, but gives more organic marks, whereas the round leaves distinct brushstrokes, often ridged, and the flat makes chunkier edges.

Given the backlighting, I realized that the foreground snow slope (where the red man is about to walk) would be in shadow. I lightly rubbed on some phthalo there, but decided that just muddled the snow effect. I ended up putting titanium white back over it (though I let hints of the blue show through to create a little dimension). I did an awful lot of back-and-forthing on this piece.

I put a tidge more shadow on the yellow man, though I still hadn't painted him in detail. At the last minute, past my work-night bedtime, I realized I hadn’t done anything about the planet's ring... I sketched it in with white just to show T. where it would be, but I knew the shape wasn’t right yet. After the next photo was taken, I added the bent antenna and broken wires to the communication device (which helped it stop looking like a TV remote). I now felt I could bear to show this to T., with the caveat that it's not done. (For instance, I still hadn't specified the shape of the spaceship at all.)


8/19 In the light of day, the clouds looked better than they had last night. Not quite there, but... not as far off as it had seemed. Overall, I feel it is an arresting image. If I saw it across a room, I’d go look at it. The question was, what would T. think of it?
corvideye: (Default)
8/17 Before putting on any wet paint, I tried sanding out the red blotch with some 400 grit sandpaper. I couldn’t remove it completely, but lightened it enough that I could cover it with gesso.

I first set out to tackle the clouds. Phthalo + titanium white + a tidge of payne’s grey, then to make it more neutral I used a tiny bit of my newly acquired cad orange. I worked several shades of this, but it seemed clunky/murky. Clouds are so much easier to paint in watercolor, where washes blend spontaneously and layer transparently, and you can soften edges with a wet brush. So how to do it in acrylics, on this less absorbent surface? I have yet to answer that.

Then something interesting happened. It occurred to me to try a dry fan brush for blending. In the immortal words of UO prof Ron Graff: “This is a blending brush. It is not for painting ‘happy little trees'!" The idea is to stroke the dry fan over two adjacent shades of applied paint, moving it back and forth to create a smooth blend. Well, that worked a little, but the fan just wasn’t stiff enough to move much paint around... I still don’t have much luck with fans, especially nylon ones. So I cast about for something stiffer... pulled out this total piece of crap brush I have no idea why I even own, some closeout with a kiddy handle and very short, fairly stiff nylon bristles, and started rubbing the paint transitions with it... it’s perfect! It moves the paint around, smoothes out the joins, and creates interesting cloud-like textures. At last I see a use for stiffer bristles... to create a softer effect! Painting is funny that way.

I felt the whole effect lacked contrast, so I mixed a dark phthalo + payne’s + touch of cad orange. Then I regretted that as being too stark... but when I made some transitional tones, another interesting thing started to happen: forms shading to very dark edge, then white beyond it: hello Georgia O’keeffe! Probably too stylized an effect for this project, but something to file away for another time.


As often happens to me with painting, I started out feeling uncertain, had a peak of something exciting and unexpected happening, then flattened back to feeling frustrated/ discouraged by the end of the session: a sine curve of satisfaction. The clouds still seemed like an unfocused mess to me. Part of the problem is there was no particular lighting logic in where the darks and lights are, and I couldn't figure out what it should be. Obviously the clouds close to the planet should be bright, but what about the storm system closer to the viewer?

I continued to layer white over most of the snow lines, blurring the line between sky and horizon. I did several thin glazes of ultramarine + Open (slow-drying) gel over the blue sky, to make it less bright blue. (With each layer, I wiped off the blue in the ring area, to make that easier to paint white when I get to it.) I really regret painting the initial cerulean layer so unevenly; those strokes were proving hard to cover up. How to paint luminous daytime skies remains a mystery to me. No wonder Maxfield Parrish guarded his method so zealously!

I worked a little more on the yellow figure. Adding cad yellow deep to my palette gave him more solidity.

I worked on the planet with the various yellows, burnt sienna and burnt umber, and titanium white. To get a more natural, irregular looking striation, I tried the fan, but as usual didn’t like how it gets clumpy when wet; the grainer brush is better...but the effect still looked messy and not dimensional. So I did more striping/layering with a round brush and the edge of a flat brush, and some glazes of yellow, orange, and red transparent iron oxides. These wonderful earth tones are similar in color to ochres and siennas, but completely transparent, imparting a warm glow.

Instead of painting fine stripes on the planet, which might look too distinct, I thought of scratching into the semi-wet paint to reveal layers; I tried the end of a brush handle, but it was too blunt... so I stuck the end of a cheap brush in the electric pencil sharpener! That worked well, though I then realized a manicure stick or skewer would do the same! I continued layering, glazing, scraping, and blending, feeling like I’d lost my mind, but it was starting to look closer. It was interesting to create an effect of density and complexity that is not regular or patterned; it needed the layering to be effective. Looking at my reference pics again, I saw that I needed more separate bands of striation, less of an all-over pattern. Also, the overall effect was now more orange than yellow; this was supposed to be a yellow gas giant. Still, I was starting to think it could work.

(Note that at this point I didn't worry about yellows overlapping onto the mountains; it would be easy to cover that up when I finished the planet and moved to the mountains. Trying to stop the stripes exactly at that edge would have looked more artificial.)

The hilarious part: after all this agonizing over the background clouds, it occurred to me that the title lettering will likely cover much of that area!! Argh. Maybe they can run it along the left side.

Meanwhile, T. had emailed that he'd like to see my progress in two days. For the sake of my own pride, I'd better have something presentable by then...
corvideye: (apples)
8/16 Second painting session: definite progress! But man, acrylics remain the very devil. Thanks to my job and recent years' exploration, I know so much more about them than I ever did before, their properties, their pigments, and yet I sometimes still feel completely at sea in rendering with them. Definitely a love-hate relationship at this point.

This time I kept inadvertantly smudging the white surface: opened a container that spattered dark green, then got red paint on my hand and tracked it onto the snow... next time I do a mostly white image, maybe I should mask out the whole background area! Argh!

I wanted to start with the central figure, because if I couldn't make that work, the picture wouldn't work, and I might as well find out at the outset. I did another layer of naphthol red to solidify coverage, then started rendering him with alizarin and then a dark mix of alizarin, phthalo, and a touch of cadmium yellow (mixed black is generally more interesting and lively than black from a tube). Then I used glazes of alizarin to bridge between darks and lights. I made a small adjustment to his right hand position. I started to introduce the concept of backlighting from the planet (which I hadn't considered in the initial phase), but naphthol red light was too weak for highlights; I needed the intense punch of cadmium orange...a regrettably expensive color.

I felt good about the red figure, the overall sense of effort and determination. I had a lot more problems with the other body. Tried various yellows: cadmium, diarylide, indian yellow, a bit of burnt sienna for shadows... dunno, I’m not feeling it yet, either the color or the contours; it looks pallid and unsubstantial.

Pencil is definitely not the best thing for underdrawing; it shows through far too much, especially on the yellow areas...but I’m not sure what to use instead. On the left is my red smudge, which I'll have to sand out later; white paint won't eradicate it.

We'd discussed putting various details on the uniforms: reflective patches, piping, pockets, insignia, etc. But once I had painted the man in red, it seemed like that would just clutter up the vivid, graphic figure, so I left it off. Besides, since no costumes exist yet, I didn't want to specify the look in a way that might later contradict the footage too much.

I added some stark figure shadows with a thin layer of phthalo, which gave it more graphic punch. But I may need to set up some mannequins to figure out the shadows’ exact shape.

I added back a little blue outlining in the snow, but mostly I continued to glaze with white (using gesso, which covers better than titanium white paint) over the snow and clouds. I decided to make the hill lines sharper towards the lake, where the clouds open, then fuzzing out where the snow is blowing more, obscuring edges. Now I wished I hadn’t done those big phthalo lines, when the field needs to be mostly stark and plain: phthalo is somewhat ineradicable. And being more comfortable with lines than paint, I had once again made the error of outline mentality: putting the strong color on the edge of the ridges, when it should be in the depths behind the ridges, with the edge being the brightest part. It took a lot of layers of white to reverse that error.


I used a template to trace a more exact circle for the yellow planet, but was pleased to find I had free-handed it almost perfectly! I fiddled around with various yellow/white/brown blends for the planet's surface; I at last found a use for the grainer brush, a weird novelty brush that creates thin parallel stripes. The planet still looks messy, but at least I have an inkling. I think I’ll try Open (slow drying) acrylics for that, so I can get softer gaseous blending. I discarded my earlier thoughts of a pure white background; this just looked too cool to pass up.



Next step: make the snow/cloud background start to work. And buy some cadmium orange and cadmium yellow deep.
corvideye: (apples)
A few months ago my coworker B. asked if I would like to do some promo artwork for a short indie film he is acting in. They planned a Kickstarter fundraiser, and wanted some concept art to help get people interested: "some rough sketches of some of the visuals from the film, sort of like Ralph McQuarrie’s sketches for Star Wars: simple, like the silhouette of the bulk of the starship sinking in a lake in the foreground while one of the characters watches at a distance." Pro bono, of course.

I read a version of the script, an SF tale with a somewhat Twilight Zone twist. I wasn't sure I would be good at the type of image they were after... Though I've always been an SF fan, my extant work is more fantasy/ surrealist or historical; I had nothing in my portfolio remotely applicable. I was particularly unsure of my ability to depict a spaceship. But B. said these didn't need to be detailed, so I said I'd consider it.

In August I met with T. the scriptwriter/creator to get a clearer idea what he had in mind. I had done a few very rough sketches from the script, and he was surprisingly excited by them, so I felt I could probably do something that would work. As we kicked around various images, it emerged that what he really wanted was a movie poster image, a more substantial effort than I had expected, though he said it could be simple, graphic silhouettes, limited colors. I blanched a bit when he said typical poster size is 27"x40"... I typically work small, so that would be a major undertaking for me. I said I woud do it smaller and then we could enlarge it. I said I'd do some color sketches and we could decide which ones to develop more fully.

In for a penny, in for a pound. At first I hadn't planned to commit a lot of time and effort to this. But I recently watched some Weta Workshop documentaries, which renewed my longstanding ambition to do some movie concept design. So, here was an opportunity to get some practice, some exposure for my work, and hopefully add some examples to my portfolio... sure, it's a tiny low budget project, unpaid, but what better place to experiment? I decided to treat this as my first movie art assignment.

This isn't really a tutorial, because I blundered about far too much to suggest this is what the process should be. This was simply my process, including missteps and retrenchings...not so much a direct path towards the goal as tacking diagonally in sailboat fashion, sometimes as much sideways as forward.

The story starts with two men escaping a spaceship that has crashed into a frozen lake on a moon. One man drags the other away from the lake while clutching a salvaged communication device. I had done this crude sketch to show T.:


I thought it had the most initial potential of the images we'd discussed. T. wanted the figures smaller, the sense of being stranded in a vast, desolate snowy waste. In other scenes, there is a yellow gas giant with a thin ring in the sky; I considered combining those concepts.

Of course, the proper way to start would be to find the nearest guy (usually poor K), dress him in a bulky coat, pose him, and take some reference photos to get the figures and shadows right. But I wanted to get started without a lot of preliminaries.

I started a fresh sketch of the main figure, but it still looked stiff and off kilter. No one else was around to model, so I posed briefly in front of the mirror to see how arms and shoulders would be positioned, how the weight of the body would drag him back, but he would have his head down to focus on the footing, pushing stubbornly forward, his chest and shoulders somewhat foreshortened towards the viewer. I found that one's free hand tended to curl towards the chest, so I considered having his free arm bent up, clutching the device.

The lower left is the sketch I started without reference; the upper right is the sketch from life; you can see how it immediately got more dynamic and convincing.

To keep the right scale ratio, I decided to work at half poster size: 13.5 x 20. Even that seems huge to me! Since this was an unpaid project, I wanted to avoid spending money on materials. I happened to have a scavenged piece of museum board almost exactly the right size. I painted a layer of gesso, deliberately leaving some brushstroke texture to help the snow effect (I almost did more, but then remembered texture doesn't reproduce well). My selection of acrylic paints is a bit erratic, a combo of leftovers from older projects plus free samples from work, so I did have to buy 3 tubes of paint later.

My art tends towards detail and sharply defined edges; my favorite illustration god is Michael Whelan. But for this piece, I aimed to work a bit faster and looser than usual: they needed the image soon (and I didn't want it to take ages), and I wanted to create something evocative but not too specific, since the movie hasn't been shot and the script is still in revisions. I was thinking of a style more like the work of Greg Manchess: loose, gestural, yet completely vivid and effective. While it's not my target style in general, I hugely admire how he is able to carry it off with such panache. (Granted, for that effect it helps that he's working in oils.) But despite my best intentions, I did veer more towards detail as I proceeded.

These pix were taken under differing non-ideal lighting conditions, hence some variation in color.

I pencilled a minimal layout on the board, with both arm options. I was torn on whether to make the background all blowing snow, to emphasize the aloneness and desolation, or to show the gas giant in the sky and the crashed ship in the frozen lake. The former would have an effective simplicity, and leave more mystery, but the latter would immediately establish this as SF and give a quick grasp of the premise: marooned on an alien world. I sketched in the latter, figuring I could always paint it out later.

I made myself start with much larger brushes than I would normally choose. The snowy setting would create cold shadows, so I did a very quick, minimal underpainting with phthalocyanine blue. Belatedly I realized I shouldn't do that on the second figure, since I planned his jumpsuit to be yellow. (T. had requested the uniforms be "brightly colored, red and/or yellow, and different from each other.")

Next I roughly filled in the standing figure with naphthol red. The phthalo still shows through in the shadow areas, as intended. The character is a young man, thrust into a situation he's not well prepared to deal with. I didn't want him to look too heroic and triumphant, rather to emphasize the struggle and determination, so I went with the arm down and deliberately made the pose a little less dynamic than I might have.

I gave the dragged body a base coat of cadmium yellow medium. I wasn't as happy with the pose/ shape of it, and the phthalo error was showing through as green. I could see I was going to need to buy a few paint colors.

(I realize this image is not completely logical. He would certainly have tried to carry the body over his shoulder, or at least put the object in his pocket and drag with both hands. But I preferred the look of this, so I went with it... I figure he could have changed position several times.)

To start toning down the snowy field, I glazed over the background phthalo with zinc (translucent) white, then switched to gesso because the zinc didn't cover enough. I sketched in the clouds with payne's grey (a blue-toned grey) and the planet with yellow, again working very crude and gestural.


I painted over the grey with gesso to tone it down. I painted the sky cerulean blue, but I worried that such a bright blue + the yellow planet might be too much color, competing with the foreground.



That was my first night's work--not much to look at yet, but a start. It felt pretty alien to how I normally begin a painting, but at the same time, that felt intriguing.

Wonders

Nov. 5th, 2009 07:53 pm
corvideye: (lotus)
This is the piece I did for my mom. The metallic ink and the fine silver sparkles in the paper don't scan that well, but you can sorta see it. I mounted it on a matte silver board that tied in well.
corvideye: (Default)
Last weekend I finished a new colored pencil drawing.

"At the Root" (Click to enlarge)

This is the first fully realized color pic I've finished in...way too long, so I'm pleased to have pursued and completed the initial impulse. Also (unusual for me) I'm very satisfied with how it came out.

Nautilus shells have been meaningful to me for a long time, but in the last few years I've been increasingly fascinated by them, and my interest has extended to their fossil ammonite relatives. To me they are emblematic of the mysterious elegance of pattern embedded in the natural world, an ancient spiral dance of measure and alignment and unfolding.

I bought a couple nice ammonite specimens at Barter Fair this year, and in reading more about them online, discovered variations I had not known about. In addition to the usual nacreous opalescence, some fossils have color flashes similar to fire opal or moonstone. Others have intricate suture lines that look like a tortoiseshell pattern of oak leaves. I am now eager to collect more such pieces...

Some drawing process notes and pix, for those who are curious... )
corvideye: (lotus)
So... Barak.

A couple weeks ago I came home from a fantastic day demoing art at Trade Show to learn that Barak Ravensfuri had died. I was just... stunned. I still am. He was so... large. That's my overwhelming impression. Large physically, large psychically, unmistakable, unignorable. A huge presence, a huge impact wherever he was. Someone who grew and matured tremendously from a rocky beginning. Big and loud and fierce and blustery, but an honorable and caring person under the noise, with a magnificent capacity for laughter and celebration. Occasionally a huge pain, but always a huge heart. It is a quieter and a poorer world without him.


I've always loved this picture. Such a peaceful moment amid a reign's usual demands. When this was taken, or a little before or after, I was probably hunkered on the ground just to the right of the throne, filling in names on scrolls. I was on retinue for the reign, and I think it was that same day when Barak, having observed my comings and goings for a bit, complained that I kept cringing when I was around him. I responded (only partly tongue in cheek), "Well, that's because I'm never sure if you're going to hit me!" (He had a way of glowering at one...) Indignant, he protested, "I would never hit you!" I said, "Can I have that in writing?" Whereupon he tore off a piece of Lao's notebook paper and wrote the following:

Which, as you can imagine, I have treasured ever since. If I ever took up fighting, I planned to laminate it to my helmet...

And here's his "Legends of An Tir" stained glass window design for Twelfth Night.
[click image to enlarge]

In his right hand he holds his eponymous "barak buck" coin, which indicates his tremendous fundraising efforts.

And that makes six... six people I know who have died in the last two months. Enough, world. Stop.
corvideye: (jago)
Yesterday someone told me about a bead shop in town I have never heard of, Azillion Beads. Turns out it is on Conger right by Oregon Leather, so I checked it out. Very cool place!! Lots of nice beads of all sorts, including many things I'd never seen before, and the prices seemed fairly reasonable. Lots of beads and findings in copper, which one doesn't see as much. I picked up a little french wire to play with, which I just learned about from Alaria--it can be clipped up and used like bullion for embroidery. I'm excited to have another bead shop in town (though I personally need more beads like the proverbial hole in the head); I've gotten pretty familiar and bored with Harlequin's stock, and tend to bounce off their prices.

Picked up more thin leather for book covers (Oregon Leather's scrap bins are wondrous, but unfortunately leadeth one into temptation). However, the other item I need for the book project is unfortunately turning into a Quest. The fastening strip is supposed to get attached to the cover with something my instructor called a canoe nail--a small nail with a hollow shaft and triangular flanges; you poke it through a drilled hole and peen it flat on the back (basically an ancestor to the staple, I think). So far, though, neither Jerry's nor Eugene Fastener has even heard of it, so I guess I'll have to do some calling around. I have no idea what normal people use it for, which would help me figure out where to look. Anyone have any thoughts--maybe something else I could use? (A normal small nail, I guess, if all else fails.) I hate it when seemingly simple things turn into Quests...especially since we're so close to being able to finish the books!

Edit: it appears that canoe nails are in fact used for building canoes and other wooden boats, but I'm still not sure where to get 'em.

Edit: nail problem solved! See below.
corvideye: (lotus)


"Emergence" (Prismacolor Lightfast & regular colored pencils on Aquabee vellum bristol)
For some reason the color in the lower half is a little frosted in the scan, but this gives the general idea.

About it )
corvideye: (Default)
... I say this even though we've recently been doing things like spouncing a stretch vinyl snakeskin jacket with gold plastic-paint, gluing lightning bolts cut from a floral embossed plastic placemat to a bike helmet (also painted gold), and duct-taping the edges of the world's strangest sweater (black knit covered completely with shiny black sequins attached edge-wise so they look and flex like snake scales) so that it can be cut apart and reassembled with plastic Motocross biker armor, pieces cut from a thermal car windshield screen, graphite gray metallic leather, black rubber weatherstripping, a pair of spandex gloves, metal washers, wire screening, and some kind of metal flange from the hardware store... To wit:

TODD E. JONES: “What is the meaning behind the name Psapp?”

CARIM: “That goes back a long time, to the early days of Psapp. We always enjoyed building our own instruments. Not exclusively, homegrown toys are used, as we also use pianos and guitars. We do regular little excursions around the manor. About 5 years ago, we found some nice bits of wood, a clip-on car boot, a giant metal string, which was more like a thick wire, and also a musical unicorn set from our local off-license. Arriving back at the studio, all excited over the excellent finds, we decided to build one instrument out of all components. After a lot of drilling and hammering, we had the car boot hanging off the ceiling in the upstairs room by the wire. It sounded like the lowest note of a piano with the extra feature of setting off a whiny toy unicorn, gaffa taped to the car boot, by hitting it on the head. So, we recorded it all straight onto DAT, but the weight of the new instrument was too much for the 150 year old ceiling. It all came down with a lot of plaster. That hole was never properly fixed. You can still see the living room while sitting on the toilet. Unfortunately, the DAT player messed up the tape and the only audio we could retrieve was us, setting it all up and our neighbor shouting in the background something that sounded like, ‘Psapp’.”

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